BONE STRAIGHT

(What you got... "bone straight" over-processed hair. Sad...) 

(What you wanted... Sleek hair with body. Sassy!)     

No worries. I am here to help you!

Now, many of us have had our hair relaxed so long we don't really remember what our natural hair texture looks like. If you were to ask the average African American woman about her natural hair she would give an account of sitting for (or crying through) hours of torture while momma (or grandmomma/auntie etc.) struggled with their long thick hair. They would tell how they couldn't WAIT to get a relaxer and how all their lives were magically easier.

Now from these accounts you would think that the average woman has "nappy" unmanageable hair. This is just simply not true. First of all... we ALL had thicker hair when we were younger. Face it, we are not spring chickens anymore; and as a result we have experienced some natural thinning. 

Below is a chart of the different natural hair curl patterns. 

STRAIGHT TO MINIMAL WAVE TYPE I OPEN WAVE Loose S-shaped curves TYPE II WAVY Distinct S-shaped curves with uniform wave pattern TYPE III CURLY Defined, mixed curl patterns: loops to spirals; ringlets to corkscrews TYPE IV

VERY CURLY Defined curl with S-shapes forming into coils TYPE V COILED Loose afro-medium coils close to the scalp TYPE VI VERY COILED Tight afro-distinct, springy coils closer to scalp TYPE VII ZIG-ZAG COILED Extremely tight afro-interlocking coils and zig-zag patterns TYPE VIII

Most of my clientele fall in between curly and coiled. Most of my clientele also feels that their hair is "nappy"... Depending on our hair texture, there are different strategies we have to use in order to achieve the looks we want. We have been programmed to think that our hair as black women is unmanageable and that we NEED a relaxer. This simply is NOT the case.

(If you can see through your hair..
 it's over processed)

This brings me to the title of this blog, BONE STRAIGHT. Bone straight hair is actually over-processed hair. This is how we have been programmed to relax. To grab a box of relaxer, slap it on and leave it on until our hair is "bone straight". Even A LOT (and I stress a lot, far too many in 2012) of stylists still relax all the texture from the hair.

The problem with this is that when you take away the curl you also take away the body & the strength. Your hair is left limp, dry & prone to breakage and splitting... Then to put ANY type of permanent color on top of that is a recipe for "follicular homicide"! (I made that term up btw.. love it)

(Those colored ends are hanging
on by grace & mercy.
It's only a matter of time
before they all break off...)

Think about the term "RELAXER". When you relax it is because you are too tense, too wound up. You need to unwind a little; but there is a distinct difference between being relaxed and being lackadaisical. We want to relax hair not beat the crap of it. We want to loosen the curl pattern while still maintaining the hair's strength and integrity. 

Very coiled or zigzag coiled hair can be very dry and resistant. Because the cuticle is so tightly closed conditioning agents just sit on top of the cuticle instead of going inside of the hair follicle. A light texturizer or a permanent color will open up the cuticle some to allow conditioner and moisturizers to penetrate. This will make the hair softer and more manageable while leaving the hair in a natural looking state.

May people these day are considering going natural, but the idea is overwhelming to them because of their childhood flashbacks. When deciding to go natural there is no other way to go from "bone straight" to natural without breakage other than chopping it all off. Because over-processed hair is weak and natural hair is in it's strongest state & the point where these two texture meet the hair will break. It's survival of the fittest. The strong will prevail while the weak will fall off. 

If you are thinking about going natural but you still want to maintain your length, it is best to texturize your hair at touch up time. This means using a milder strength of relaxer than you would usually use. This will allow you to get used to working with your hair in a more natural state, while creating a medium ground between your relaxed and natural textures.

By relaxing the hair according to our needs, we give ourselves versatility. We allow ourselves a greater range of styling possibilities. It gives us the opportunities to be able to get those bright or bold high lift colors without compromising the health of our hair. Relaxer is a TOOL not a CRUTCH. An OPTION not a NECESSITY. 

(Toya gets a texturizer so she can have the versatility to wear
her hair straight without it swelling or curly when she wants to)

I do not advise my clients to do any type of chemical application at home. I have had clients call and ask, "I don't have the money to come to you. What type of relaxer/color do you recommend?" None. I don't use products that you can purchase in the beauty supply store. I use professional products in the salon. Relaxer is a chemical and can be dangerous if not applied professionally. Do you know how many clients I see with irreversible hair loss because of improper styling and chemical application? Once you have damaged you hair to that extent there is little to nothing you can do to bring it back.

(I see so many clients like this.. Yrs of home relaxer application)

There is much more to chemical application then following the directions on the box. There is much more than what we as stylists learn in hair school. 10 years of trial and error, continuing education and experience have taught me everything I know. My clients do not pay me to follow the directions on the box. They pay me for my expertise. They trust that I will keep their hair healthy! That is my promise to you. I am a hair care specialist because my primary goal is achieving and maintaining healthy hair.

I hope you learned something & I'll see you soon! If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

Peace out!

Nia (Your New Stylist)